Yangshuo-The Most Beautiful Place in China; Jessie Lu..The Best Guide in Yangshuo

by Jerry
(Eugene, OR USA)

For many years Yangshuo was just another sleepy farm village, attracting mostly back-packers as visitors. Now Yangshuo serves as a destination point for international visitors as well as the burgeoning Chinese middle class tourist. I am an American traveler who just spent four days in Yangshuo and thanks to my guide, JESSE LU, it was truly an incredible experience.

Bamboo rafts and Moon Mountain
Today my guide, Lu Ai Qun (Jesse Lu) and I rode our bikes several kilometers to a river dock where we boarded a bamboo river raft. Down the river we went on this light, flimsy craft consisting of nothing more than a couple of seats mounted to a dozen bound bamboo poles.

Remembering this is China, the scene resembled a river parade…what a sight! We are lined up on the river, enjoying a unique experience, just like the hundreds of others ahead and behind.

After the raft docs down stream a couple of miles, Jessie had arranged for our bicycles to on the bank waiting for us! A short ride now delivers us to the base of Moon Rock, a huge slice of rock with a round hole in its center. To get the picture at the top, one must mount 800 steps on a marble paved mountain path. At various angles it’s supposed to resemble the changing of the new moon to a full moon. The view from the top is breathtaking but I think I might have been sweating too profusely to see the changing moon feature. In this part of China, a sunny day is truly a SUNNY day!

Cycling back through a series of farmers’ fields, I was amazed at the variety of crops produced here: persimmons pommelo, oranges, tangerines, green beans, pumpkins, peanuts, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc. Today was everything I could have hoped for in a day in the Chinese countryside.

Sunrise on the River Li and the Amazing Yangshuo Light Show. Then the next morning got even better. A gorgeous sunrise framed itself perfectly between two of the limestone karsts as we rode atop a small barge on the Li River. It’s hard to stop taking pictures of this river valley. We stopped for an American breakfast in a youth hostel in a small town named Xingping. As we through the village, we happened onto a pre-nuptial ceremony, which involved the loudest, longest, smokiest firecracker display I’ve ever seen or HEARD.

Yangshuo has a light show performance famous throughout China. Think of the opening ceremony of the 2008 Olympics, the incredible number of performers on stage all at once and the precision choreography. Now move that stage outdoors onto a square mile of water and surround it with giant limestone karsts. Equip each of the 500 performers with costumes, each with distinctive lighting and then have them perform in boats one moment only to march on top of the water the next. You get the idea…Cirque du Soleil on steroids! A chorus line of 500 dancers, all seemingly moving on top of the water in front of a magnificently lit MOUNTAIN RANGE.

Western travelers be prepared: The western protocol of being quiet during a performance simply doesn’t apply here. It really was only cultural difference I found annoying.

Jessie's Home - Pudi Village
Each day in Yangshuo has been better than the last, making the last the very best of all. Jesse Lu arranged for us to cycle the 17K trek to her village outside of Yangshuo. To get to Pudi Village, we rode mostly on unpaved, rural roads and narrow village pathways. Of course there was a river to ferry that involved a small boat, one pilot, and a long stick. When we arrived in Pudi, we first went to the school where I was greeted warmly by students and staff. This country school lacks most of the materials and equipment we would consider minimal but the kids are happy and teachers are working hard. The principal, Lui Huang Xiang was curious about American salaries and I was a little embarrassed to tell him. A teacher in his school makes about 20,000Yeun (or about $3000) annually. While it’s true the standard and cost of living is considerably lower in this Chinese village…STILL!!!!!!

Next I was welcomed into Jessie's family home. (This is why I chose Jessie in the first place as a recent client had mentioned this in the reference.) We toured the village…so much to see and learn and had lunch with the family. This is the kind of traveling I love the most so today was a special day indeed.

Jessie Lu is simply the BEST! Her English is excellent, her knowledge of the area is unrivaled, and she is a joy to be around. Families, groups, couples or solo travelers will find that Jessie Lu can tailor a trip that will fit your needs just right. I've encountered many tour guides in my travels and NONE OF THEM COME CLOSE TO JESSiE LU.