Military University and Chinese Chess, my stay in Guangzhou

For a few weeks lived in Guangzhou south China. It was here that I learned Chinese Chess, but lets start at the beginning. In the mornings I gave private English lessons but in the afternoons I was free. What to do when you are in a city like Guangzhou? I had seen the few interesting sites in Guangzhou. Thus I had to think how to keep myself busy. At the time I didn't have a computer with me.

Some months earlier I had met a Chinese lady who lived in Guangzhou. We had kept in touch with each other. She had invited me to get in contact with me if I would ever go to Guangzhou.

While I was in Yangshuo I knew I had to move to Hong Kong to renew my visa. As Guangzhou was on the way to Hong Kong, I gave her a call. The lady introduced me to a family who's son would soon go to the UK. The query was if I was willing to give him some private additional English lessons. As I had nothing further to do, I had no problem, besides, the money was good.

My friend invited me to join her to the university where she was having a speech. She was an English teacher and contrary to many English teachers I had met in China, her English was close to perfect.

She would pick me up at my hotel and together with two other colleagues we would go to the university. What she didn't tell me was that the university was a military university! This is normally off limits for foreigners. We went inside. The big hall was already filled with cadets, all in uniform. I felt a bit uncomfortable as I was not prepared for this.

I was told I was not able to make photos, which made sense. After a few introductions my friend took the stage and gave a lecture in English about the importance of learning English for Chinese people. After her speech, one of her colleagues came on stage. He too spoke about English. To my surprise they asked me on stage. The teacher told the cadets about me, as I was a cyclist and traveler and asked me to say a few words to the cadets in the hall.

I was totally unprepared, as you will understand, I gave them a little bit of how much I enjoyed China, expecting this what what they would like to hear. I got a standing applause. Very strange!

Modern shopping street in Guangzhou

After the speeches the general in command offered us "some refreshments". We went to a restaurant where some of the most expensive dishes came on: pig brain, intestines, chicken feet, cow stomach. As being the only foreigner, all eyes were on me when I had to taste them. I have never been a fan of chicken feet but the intestines were OK. Pig brain and cow stomach were a bit tasteless but the kidney was fine.

Again no photos, as the military is not keen on being on the photo with foreigners or being photographed at all.

Chinese Chess

During my stay in Guangzhou I had the afternoons free. I stayed at Shamian Island, the older part of Guangzhou. It's a pretty part of Guangzhou, houses in colonial style as it was the only place in Guangzhou where foreigners were allowed to be in the old city of Canton.

As the Shamian Dao, or White Swan island, is very quiet this is a good spot to hang out on one of the many cafes and restaurants. However, the older Chinese people prefer to go to the riverside and play Chinese Chess.

While I stayed in Yangshuo, William from the 7th Heaven Cafe and Hostel had taught me the basics of Chinese Chess. The game is similar to international chess with a few exceptions.

As I can not read Chinese characters, I had to memorize them. In Chinese Chess each player has 6 pawns, and 2 cannons. At the four corners of the board you will find the rooks or cars. Next to the rook are the knights or horses followed by the ministers and the advisors. Right in the middle is the king.

The Rooks move over the board in horizontal and vertical lines. The knights move with 2 steps up and one step left of right, or two steps left or right and one up or down. The ministers move diagonally with two steps at the time and only on the players part of the board. The adviser moves only one step at the time, diagonally within the king's palace (the area with a big X). The king only moves in his palace moving horizontal or vertical with one step at the time. Pawns move one step up but once they're in the enemies half they can move vertical too. Canons move like the rooks but they attack there must a non empty field in between the canon and the piece it's attacking.

Locals playing Chinese Chess

It sounds pretty simple, and it is pretty simple, until you start playing with the old men at Shamian Dao! These men play their whole life, they play with a speed, see things you can only dream of. When I walked around at the area where people where playing, I started to get an interest. And while I watched people play, usually surrounded by many who all offered advice and commented on the game, some invited me to join and play with them.

Here the fun became. Usually the expect me not to know how to play, so the guys helped me winning the first game. Then my opponent usually felt annoyed and wanted revenge. The everybody joined in and it became a real game where it seemed the it was everyone joining me, helping me to win.

I came there every afternoon and learned a lot from those men. The speed they play in, I couldn't master, but I do now much better how to play. And with my living here in Malaysia, I still play every once in a while with some Chinese here who know the game. It was one of those ways to get in touch with local people.

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